Commoner’s Cuisine in NYC

Thanh Huong, which located deep inside an alley on Canal Street of New York Chinatown, reminds me of com binh dan (commoner’s cuisine or food for workers) in Viet Nam. The place is extremely small and only wide enough for a few tables, but the food is amazing. Thanh Huong is a kind of place that doesn’t need to find its customers, but the customers will find it through words of mouth, and that is how I learned about it. My first dish was Bun Bo Hue (Hue’s Style Vermicelli Soup), which was highly recommended to me, and it was delicious. The broth was spicy and savory, just like the one I had in Hue couple years ago. It was so hot that I needed a glass of fresh-squeezed orange juice to cool down my system. I was sweating while slurping. After finishing up my bowl, I noticed a guy next to me ordered a gigantic plate of rice with Thit Kho (Pork Simmered in Caramel Sauce), Dua Gia (Pickled Bean Sprouts) and Tom Rim (Shrimp Simmered in Fish Sauce), which also made my mouth watery, but had to save it for next time.

Japanese Hotpot

After watching Lost In Translation, I’ve been looking all over for an authentic cuisine that Bill Murray has commented as, “What kind of restaurant makes you cook your own food?” Last Sunday, I have found what I have been searching for at Shabu-Zen in Boston, and I was impressed with the quality of the foods, the prices, and the services.

The whole meal is simple and elegant. Just fresh meat, fresh seafood, fresh vegetables (including tofu) boil in blazing broth according one’s personal preference (Yeah baby, I like it raw…), and then dipping in the flavorful sauce for a tasty experience. A bottle of Kirin Ichiban is a perfect choice to rinse down the food, but a glass of real-fruit smoothie, especially mango, is a delightful alternative.

I have to come back to try everything on the menu even though the “Meat Combo” (lamb and beef) and “Seafood Platter” (salmon, cod, scallops, fish cake, and squid) were magnificent. Although I am not getting paid or a free meal for my recommendation, Shabu-Zen is a worth visit if you’re in the Boston area next time.

Banh Xeo (Vietnamese Omelet)

Most restaurants translate Banh Xeo as Vietnamese Pancake. I would call it omelets to be more exact since it is prepared more like an omelet. Summertime is the best time for Banh Xeo because we need the fresh veggies. The variety of herbs, especially the lizard’s tail (rau dap ca), boosts the flavor significantly. Of course, a good mixed bowl of fish sauce is required. To make a good Banh Xeo, the skin needs to thin and crispy. Cu xan (the white strips that sneak out from the photo) needs to be sweet and juicy. I like the stuffing to have at least two jumbo shrimps and a bit of pork’s fat. A bottle of chilled beer, preferably Sapporo, might be necessary to wash down the food.

Banh Khoai Mon (Taro Root Cake)

Another fantastic sweet treat from mom. Although Banh Khoai Mon is not as popular as Banh Trung Thu (Moon Cake), I like the light sweet and distinctive taste of the taro root. This piece of cake is highly enjoyable with a cup of hot tea.

Goi Ga (Chicken Salad) with Nachos

Mom always find something new to go with her foods. She made this wonderful Chao Goi Ga (Congee with Chicken Salad) that got me sweating while slurping. Chao Goi Ga is nothing new, but Vietnamese chicken salad with nachos is quite different. She asked me to try, and I was reluctant at first, but was hooked once I gave it a taste, especially when accompanied by a bottle of Tsingtao. Her special mixed fish sauce added an astonishing tang to the Vietnamese taco. Mom, you rock.

Banh Chuoi (Banana Cake)

Although mom was not able to make much food this time because of her surgery, she did managed to make a delicious banana cake, one of my favorite desserts. The light sweet banana is enhenced by the creamy coconut milk, and together they taste fantastic.

Happy Seafood

Too hungry to describe. Let the photo speaks for itself.

Bo Bay Mon (Seven-course Beef)

I can’t wait for the weekend to come so I drive up to Dorchester for my favorite Bo 7 Mon at Pho 2000. Even though Bo 7 Mon is being served at several Vietnamese restaurants in Dorchester, Pho 2000 stand out the most, thanks to their incomparable Mam Nem (Fermented Anchovy Dip). Based on Mekong’s style, their version of Mam Nem includes fine chopped fresh lemongrass and pineapple.

Beef is the main part, but the meal would not be complete without the savory dip and fresh vegetables. My favorite dishes are Bo Nhung Dam (Beef Fondue), Bo Chien Bo (Butter-Fried Beef), Bo Tai Chanh (Rare Beef With Lime), Bo La Lot (Grilled Beef-stuffed Leaves), and Bo Mo Chay (Fatty Beef). I am not too crazy about Cha Dum (Beef Pate) and Chao Bo (Beef Congee). Fortunately, switching dishes are allowed.

I like the way they serve each course one at a time, instead of throwing everything on the table at once. I also like the self-serving part of the meal. Some like it rare, some like it cook, some like a certain vegetables, and some don’t. So the best solution is to let each person does it the way he or she prefers. My rolls are always packed with vegetables, which required two spring papers to hold them together. Obviously a glass of cold beer is the best choice for washing down the beef and Mam Nem, but they don’t serve alcohol at Pho 2000. So a glass of durian shake is not a bad supplement.

Anh Hong, a newer restaurant also in Dorchester, offers Ca Bay Mon (seven-course fish) as an adaptation. Although the dishes are not so bad, they just don’t flow together as smooth as the original Bo 7 Mon.

Graduation Dinner

Alan Favini, the chef we adore, is back. Despite his packed working schedule (eighteen hours a day), he managed to squeeze in a few hours to give us an exceptional graduation dinner. Once again, Alan wowed us with his mouthwatering and aesthetically compelling dishes.

After a typical party-starting scene: chatting, drinking, taking pictures, and congratulating the graduates, the dinner kicks off with Roasted Beet Salad with Shallot and Balsamic. What makes Alan’s salad distinctive is the way he pulls off the basic taste-essence: bitter, sweet and sour. The initial taste of the popcorn shoots (white strips on top as shown in the photo) is bitter, but the flavor becomes a sweet sensation almost instinctly inside our mouth. He added a slightly sour Balsamic dressing not only to complement the sweet and bitter tang of the fusion vegetables, but also to balance the visual presentation by providing a yellow element to the green composition.

The visual aesthetic only gets better, and the Lobster Bisque with Brie Toasts is evidence. The beautiful orange soup is creamy and rich in texture. My favorite part of this portion is not only the soup but also the crunchy piece of bisque topped with cheese, cherry tomatoes, and lobster meat that had been flamed by a splash of Cognac. Dipping the bisque inside the soup and put it my mouth is just heaven-sent.

The main course, Stuffed Lobster Tail with Mushroom Risotto and Baby Vegetables, showcases Alan’s culinary style and a passion for his craft. The dish has a delicious savor and exquisite presentation. Like a painter who captures his art on a canvas, Alan captures his art on a plate. The arrangement is simple but striking. Obviously, the lobster tail is the best part, but the rice, which enhanced by the fragrance of wine, is no less impressive. The wine flavored rice is a perfect accompaniment to the tender, sweet, and meaty lobster. The only thing I needed to wash down these great food is a glass of wine.

As a visual guy, I love the process of making art; therefore, I did not waste an opportunity to watch Alan in action. From the timing, to the precision in measuring, to the meticulous attention to the details in seasoning and decorating, Allen gave me a deeper appreciation for the art of culinary. Just from watching him cook, I wanted to become a chef; however, I am more of a taster than a baker, and I can’t handle eighteen hours a day like he does. What inspires me the most is the way Alan controls his production in professional manor. He prepped up twenty fresh and hot dishes on the spot without breaking a sweat. With his level of skills, he could easily start his own catering company for small parties like ours. In fact, he should open a restaurant to push his art to a higher level.

Chicken Wing’s Secret

Fish sauce again? Of course, fish sauce will enhance the chicken, but we’re not using it this time. For a distinctive taste of chicken wings, flavor them with chao (fermented tofu). Let the chicken sits for at least three hours (the longer the better) to allow the smooth and creamy tang of chao marinate into the meat. Deep fry the chicks and that’s it. However, it don’t mean a thing if you ain’t got that spicy thang. The infamous Tuong Ot Sriracha Hot Chili Sauce (no blue cheese is necessary) is a perfect complement to the wings.

Contact